what to use for anchoring treated deck posts anchors to concrete

If you are planning on building a low deck or wood patio next to the concrete foundation(cheque out how to remove concrete slabs from patio), you might take an fantabulous opportunity to actually solidify the deck frame by mounting it to the foundation itself. This eliminates the need for post holes and additional concrete right next to the foundation, which tin can get tricky at best and is a major pain or altogether incommunicable to do correct at worst.

This brief tutorial will have y'all footstep-by-step through the process of mounting the outer part of a deck frame to the concrete foundation, including mounting a frame to a curved concrete pace. We hope you lot notice this tutorial helpful.

The first, and probably nigh important, tool that y'all'll need admission to in order to mount the deck frame to the concrete foundation is a rotary hammer drill. A rotary hammer drill produces a pounding forcefulness while drilling that makes it an fantabulous tool for effectively drilling into (or through) physical.

Other materials that you might demand or find helpful are your pressure-treated lumber (this example uses 2×six force per unit area treated lumber), a level, wedge anchors, a hammer, a ratchet, and a clamp. And a miter saw for making your lumber cuts. You might find a chalk line helpful as well, to mark your level line.

This instance uses 1/two″ wedge anchors, 4-one/4" long. To summate the length needed, figure that you'll need 2-i/2" of the anchor into the concrete itself, then whatever length will go through your lumber (in this example, the true width of a 2×half dozen, which is ane-1/2"), plus 1/iv″ for the anchor washer and nut.

Yous will demand to drill nigh one/4″ deeper than 2-1/two" into the concrete, as per wedge anchor instructions. Because information technology is more than accurate to place the 2×half-dozen and drill through that into the physical (meliorate to marshal them precisely when they're drilled together), we measured and marked with colorful tape on the drill bit 4-one/2", which gives united states of america a little extra space just in instance.

Begin by determining the summit placement of your ii×6 pressure-treated frame piece. Considering we volition be using ii×6 redwood for the deck top, we accounted for that when determining placement. We used a scrap slice of 2x to determine exactly where the tiptop of the frame should hit on the concrete, marked along the bottom of the bit 2×six with a pencil.

Hither you tin can see the pencil guide line for the top of the frame lumber.

Position your slice of pressure level-treated lumber for the deck frame, aligned with your guide line. Use a level to make sure information technology's, well, level.

Have 1 or two people agree the frame lath firmly in place, as the rotary hammer drill will vibrate the lumber and move it slightly out of place if y'all're not conscientious. Drill through the lumber and into the physical with your rotary hammer drill, upward to the point y'all've marked with record on the drill fleck.

Slide the washer onto your wedge ballast, then thread the nut onto the anchor to concord the washer in place.

Hammer the wedge anchor into the frame lath and concrete nevertheless holding the frame lath tightly in place.

Hammer the wedge anchor all the way into the board. You lot might have to unscrew the nut a bit as you lot go closer to finishing up with the hammer; call back, y'all simply want near 1/4″ of the wedge ballast exposed. After yous unscrew the nut a niggling, hammer in the anchor a scrap more.

Once the top of the wedge ballast is flush with the outer edge of the nut, you're gear up to tighten the ballast into place.

Use a ratchet to tighten down on the ballast nut.

The lumber might curve inwards slightly every bit you tighten; this is okay. Don't worry about cranking it downwards likewise tightly, though. You lot don't want to impairment or weaken your frame board.

Yous can see here a well-tightened nut, with only a slight bend in the nearby frame board.

Keeping the frame board level and holding information technology tightly in place, drill other holes. A adept dominion of pollex is to place an anchor every few feet. Cut and butt additional frame boards up next to the first one, if needed.

Be sure to go on the boards level, even at the connection points. You can mount the boards upward to almost 6" in from the finish of the board.

Continue in that style for directly foundation mounts, and you'll be well on your way to an easy deck frame task. Even so, if you mustaccommodate a bend in your frame, such every bit at the bottom of curved patio steps, you'll need to adopt a few unlike strategies.

Get-go, cutting smaller boards that will let yous to work around the curve. Each board should extend about iv"-half dozen" past the curve on each side.

Remember that you lot'll want ii bolts per boardso every bit to go on information technology securely mounted also as level and stable.

Discover that these boards do not sit down flush against the curve at all points (which is, of course, because they're mounted onto curved concrete). Nonetheless, they are stable because the wedge anchors are installed at the bespeak on the board where the curve starts to divide from the lath'southward back face.

Second, employ a clamp to hold the pieces level; because they are smaller boards, everything (including fingers and faces) gets much closer to the drill bit, which can make everyone nervous. The clamp helps to keep things in place, although yous'll still need to use some muscle to go along the lath in place as well.

Go on the pressure-treated lumber boards level with the steps (which, hopefully, are perfectly level themselves), and just work your way around the curve, marking where to cut each board length piece past slice.

You'll notice that the ends of these frame boards touch just are not end-to-finish affluent (as in, the ends aren't cut at angles to join precisely with the neighboring ends). This is perfectly fine for a deck frame. The boards are secure, with their double wedge anchors into the concrete, to provide plenty of back up for the deck frame.

Congratulations, you've just successfully mounted your deck frame securely to the physical foundation, on a straight airplane and/or curved sides! You can start to visualize the concluding result now, can't you?

Happy DIYing.

skidmoretolad1959.blogspot.com

Source: https://www.homedit.com/deck-framing/

what to use for anchoring treated deck posts anchors to concrete

0 Response to "what to use for anchoring treated deck posts anchors to concrete"

Post a Comment

Iklan Atas Artikel

Iklan Tengah Artikel 1

Iklan Tengah Artikel 2

Iklan Bawah Artikel